Les Rendezvous - Meeting Expectations!

A recent dose of that ghastly modern phenomenon, the "feedback session", suggested that Your Humble Correspondent needed to somehow adjust the equally ghastly "work-life balance". Actually, it was already apparent that there was a surfeit of "work" - the YHC Over-Work Alarm kicks in at a little over one hour per day, and the klaxons were screaming.

So a brief moment's thought poolside at the wretchedly work-a-day Hilton Spa and Resort in Guam convinced me to immediately reach out to similarly minded individuals, and lift the "life" component significantly toute de suite. Ergo, an urgent missive to my Stern friend saw us headed to Les Rendezvous in Nishi-Azabu at the recommendation of the wretched Dominic; wretched only because he always seems to find these places before Your Humble Correspondent!

Les Rendezvous provides a wonderfully imaginative approach to the dining experience: it features good to very good French cuisine with good to very good Australian wine. Now, a warning to the wise: do not try this at home ... it requires an expert hand, and rafts of courage. Ikai-san (sommelier; waiter, CEO, dreamer) used a Working Holiday Visa experience in Australia to create more than one life's worth of ideas and inspiration. Chef Tsuruoka shares a remarkable vision with Ikai-san, and matches an eclectic and good value wine list with some remarkable efforts out of such a small kitchen.

The dream, of course, is to move to their own space (isn't it always?). The chairs don't match yet, and the decor is spartan (referencing the ancient Greek city-state's military camps perhaps?). But the effect is openly friendly, and the service always delivered with a smile and a sense of sharing rather than performance.

We chose the Degustation @ Y7,200 ... excellent value, and a chance to test Chef's mettle. The Jambon cuit sauce gribiche starter was home-made and therefore sweet and moist; its companion Amuse enough to hold interest while not distracting one's attention. The fish course - Sébaste pôelée sauce tomates fraîches (Pan fried rockfish fresh tomato sauce) - showed a deft, even dab, hand in the kitchen and was served with out the horrid dessication that a warming tray inevitably bestws. Our meat course was a wonderful domestic pork dish, with hints of wa-fu citrus and a delicate touch of herbs. We opted for cheese instead of dessert.

Les Rendezvous' wine list is best viewed via the iPad on offer, although Ikai-san should make sure it stays up to date and is kitted out with some tasting notes and advice rather than just being a pdf of a type-witten summary. Pricing is fair and reasonable - so that YHC was able to purchase sufficient to ensure he neither remembers the vineyard(s) nor the vintage(s)! Beer should move on from Malts, although Suntory was kind enough to donate the icebox and we should acknowledge their generosity if not flavor.

In summary, Les Rendezvous is what it sets out to be - a neighborhood bistro that welcomes your custom on a regular basis, and doesn't seek to replace your special venues as places for celebration. It is ... unashamedly ... the restaurant Your Humble Correspondent would like to set up once the work-life balance meter hits 100% (life). Go along with friends and lovers, but book ahead. I fear this is the sort of place that is going to get popular.

Pip! Pip!


Les Rendezvous: 3-13-20 Hide bldg. B1, Nishiazabu, Minato-ward. t: 03-5410-8110
Rating: Food: 7/10; Wine: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 7/10; Price-Performance: 8/10. Total: 36/50 (3 Forks)

Potager Vegetable Sushi

It has been some time, Gentle Reader, since Your Humble Corespondent last forced his unwelcome presence on your attention. For reasons completely beyond a reasonable person's ken, he has been lashed to the wheel of the fair ship Neways to steer a path to calmer waters. A little reminiscent of lunatics taking over the asylum, but still ...

Nonetheless, one has to dine. If possible, dine well. Hopefully, dine extravagantly.

In this spirit of exuberance, we recently ventured to Potager in Roppongi at the invitation of the Texas Ranger. Heaven only knows what one might expect from the Chuck Norris of all things telephonic, but on this occasion he outdid himself.

Potager is a true temple to gastronomy, a beacon of hope in the dreary luncheon landscape of Tokyo. One hopes you are seated, Gentle Reader, as you read this - but Potager is a vegetable sushi establishment that excels at its trade and its craft.

After choosing an organic French white wine as our soporific of preference, we opted the luncheon course which features a variety of dishes that, after some flirtation with brilliant imo amuses and a simple plate of perfect asparagus, build to a crescendo with six delightful morsels of vegetable nigiri-zushi and then powers all the way onto a vegetable chirashi-zushi that stuns both the eye and mouth. A wonderfully rich soup rounds out a fairly substantial set that comes at quite a refreshingly reasonable price. The dessert course was delightful, following through on the vegetable theme with panache and flavor.

Having just last week enjoyed Sushi Mizutani with a magnanimous and discerning visitor (more to follow), Your Humble Correspondent was fully prepared to be disappointed by the notion of sushi rice topped with plant matter. Oh fickle fussy one! How, I hear you asking, could EOIT doubt the art of Potager?

Be not afraid. This is not your mother's vegetables, boiled into submission or mashed into pap in order to somehow fool the taste buds of the unsuspecting young. Each example is lovingly fussed over, its smallest details given attention to, each curve and bud plumped to its fantastic best.

Truth be told, Potager is an example of chefs being creative and playful with food. It's this sort of experience that drives one to new venues rather than some vain hope of finding the perfect blancmange. Cooking is less about personality than it is about playfulness - bravo Potager for having the courage to stay curious.

Visit Potager with your curious and sadly juvenile friends, and make sure you don't ruin the atmosphere by talking about business! And don't mind the lurking stranger... I've got to make friends somehow.

Potager : Roppongi Keyakizaki Dori, Roppongi Hills, 6-9-1-1F, Roppongi, Minato-ku. t: 03-3497-8822
Rating: Food: 8/10; Wine: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 8/10; Price-Performance: 7/10. Total: 37/50 (3 Forks)

Ristorante Casina Canamilla - Moderna e Classica en Naka-Meguro

There are places, Gentle Reader, when genius sneaks up quietly and taps one on the shoulder. It is almost always precocious, and inevitably surprising. Often, it falls like the gentle rain from a particular individual who seems to set the tone for an entire establishment. But rarely has Your Humble Correspondent found a venue which boasts a double dealing of culinary creativity like Risorante Casina Canamilla [Map].

Casina Canamilla is no humble farmhouse, and is in fact a remarkably effective collaboration between Chefs Konishi and Iwatsubo perched fashionably above the Meguro River between Asahi-bashi and Yadoyama-bashi (?宿山橋) a few short steps from Naka-Meguro station. [Note to self: This spot will be phenomenal in Spring with the cherry blossoms!]. It is well-appointed and very comfortable, and each aspect of the dining experience seemingly mapped out so that the only task for the guest is to engage in pleasant and witty conversation and sip slowly on an apertif of Italian birra.

Casina Canamilla takes extreme care to only use the freshest ingredients to create two menus - Classica being (obviously) classical Italian cuisine and Moderna as a much more creative and contemporary treatment. Canamilla marches its regional inspiration up and down the Italian peninsula in step with the seasons, so that summer sees Sicilian and Calabrian influences on the menu. Lombardy and Piedmonte obviously star in winter.

The service at Casina Canamilla is both professional and knowledgeable, and the wine list verily bulging at the seams with well-chosen selections from all over Italy. One has the feeling that the floor team and the kitchen team are always engaged in a graceful and entertaining minuet that delivers on customer expectations but never intrudes.

To professional gluttons like Your Humble Correspondent, there is really no choice. Moderna throws down a challenge that only the faintest of hearts would resist (see the menu reproduced below). Both chefs contribute to the game, and their contributions are helpfully marked on the menu. Technique and imagination are both on display in every course, although preparations such as the ricci di mare stand out as both stunning ideas and successful demonstrations of the culinary art. This is probably the most-rounded, interesting, and delicious meal put before YHC in the last three months.

This is a very good restaurant, Gentle Reader. In fact, this is a restaurant that is best kept a secret just between us. And good friends ... Visit only with friends and lovers, and take care that they don't talk out loud about it. The walls have ears ....

Pip! Pip!

Risorante Casina Canamilla [Map]: 2F Towa Building, 1-23-3 Aobaidai, Meguro-Ku; t: 03-3715-4040
Rating: Food: 8/10; Wine: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Ambiance: 8/10; Price-Performance: 7/10. Total: 37/50 (3 Forks)

Menu Moderna Buri marinato con porro, acciughe, ed olive nero
Ricci di mare e purea di finocchio
Trenette con Granchio
Tagliolini di farina de segale al ragu di cervo
Arrosto di maiale di YAMAGATA con ANNO-IMO e funghi tronbetta
Mousse di gianduja e polenta croccante, gelato di pistacchio al profumo di Yuzu

Bistro Aida - Promise You won't Tell

So, Gentle Reader: can you be trusted with a secret?

If Your Humble Correspondent told you about a very good restaurant with a splendid chef, gracious floor staff, and a good wine list - that was also remarkably good value-for-money - would you be able to keep it to yourself? Would the greater good ... in this case, my being able to get a reservation on a whim ... mean that you would forfend all and any attacks on your confidentiality? At this juncture, it seems appropriate to provide a brief explanation of the dilemma with which Your Humble Correspondent is confronted.

The daily commute includes an ambulatory section (rest assured this is taken at a gentle pace!) from the Hellhole to Ebisu Station, and for weeks one's eyes were drawn to a rather nondescript eatery with the quaint name Bistro Aida [Map] (the aida piece being the Japanese for 'space'). An innocent quip like "What ho! I do believe I have found another little gem..." was enough for The Once and Future Blonde to determine that we should visit said establishment (together, apparently). So we went ... but a different "we" than she imagined. As it happened, there was the appointment with The Adjutant that needed some sort of suitable venue. And the rest is history, Gentle Reader.

Chef Seiji Omote has this place humming since its opening in February 2010, and it is a real "keeper". There is only one omakase offering with six courses including the amuse, for the princely sum of Y3,800 plus supplements for various choices in the Plat Principal and Dessert courses. But the food is heavenly ...

Your Humble Correspondent was quite taken with the Hors D'oeuvre of Fois Gros Pate and Wagyu Carpaccio in a Yuzu and Kabu foam, which was served with four ambrosial slices of Kyo-vegetables (white, black, and red turnips along with black daikon). Our excellent Bagna Cauda was served with two very interesting salts as an alternative with the vegetables: sumi-shio (charcoal salt) and smokii-shio (smoked salt) from Fukushima. Only in Japan, one imagines, but these are both real taste treats that are by themselves reason enough to visit Bistro Aida.

The main course meant duck of course, served with a fascinating sabayon (syllabub to some) of fois gros and puree of porcini mushrooms. It must have been the military testosterone, but we both showed typical reserve by plumping for cheese instead of dessert (which was a Sweet Potato and Apple Pie with cinnamon ice cream).

The wine list is good and well priced, and The Adjutant and I shared a very good Domaine Millet Sancerre 2008 and a 2006 Burgundy that escaped detection. In spite of this extravagance, our bill came to less than Y30,000.

Most of the people in the room were considerably younger than YHC, a sad occurrence that is becoming all too frequent in recent years. But if Bistro Aida is a date spot for sophisticated 30-somethings, it is a refined and all together elegant one which lives up to its mission statement as "a restaurant for adults."

Visit with friends and lovers rather than business colleagues, who would no doubt turn Bistro Aida to their own evil ends. And look for the more mature lurker in the corner - it would be nice to make your acquaintance!

Pip! Pip!

Bistro Aida [Map]: 1F No. 2 AS Bldg, 1-16-33 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; t: 03-5422-9685
Rating: Food: 8/10; Wine: 7/10; Service: 7/10; Maturity: 7/10; Price-Performance: 8/10. Total: 37/50 (3 Forks)

Reviewed Restaurant List

In response to overwhelming demand (well, 2 people...), Gentle Reader, for a list of the restaurants your Humble Correspondent has reviewed, herewith alphabetically by genre:


* The year indicates when I last visited. Reviews have sometimes been updated.



Contemporary
45 Roppongi 38/50 (2007)
Angolo Hiroo 36/50 (2009)
Azabu Haus Azabu Juban 36/50 (2008)
Cicada Hiroo 34/50 (2010)
Citabria Nishi-Azabu 34/50 (2010)
Cujorl Sakura-ga-Oka-Cho 37/50 (2010)
French Kitchen Roppongi 35/50 (2010)
Glass Australia 42/50 (2008)
Hiroo 148 Hiroo 35/50 (2010)
HuMid Australia 39/50 (2009)
Eat More Greens Azabu Juban 0/50 (2009)
La Casita Jingumae 34/50 (2007)
My Favorite Lebanon Daikanyama 0/50 (2008)
New York Grill Shinjuku 29/50 (2008)
Potager Roppongi 37/50 (2011)
Salt Marunouchi 38/50 (2010)
Sens Azabu Juban 32/50 (2009)
Two Rooms Aoyama 36/50 (2009)
Wolfgang Puck Various 20/50 (2009)


Chinese
Chinese Café 8 Ebisu 0/50 (2008)
Chinese Café 8 Roppongi 35/50 (2008)
China Blue Shiodome 40/50 (2010)



French
A ta guele Ebisu 36/50 (2008)
Artichaut Ebisu 35/50 (2008)
Benoit Jingumae 36/50 (2008)
Bistro Aida Ebisu 37/50 (2010)
Bistro de la Cite Nishi-Azabu 37/50 (2008)
Bon Monsieur Roppongi 39/50 (2009)
Bon Pinard Moto-Azabu 40/50 (2008)
Brasserie Manoir Ebisu 36/50 (2009)
Brin du Muguet Ogikubo 37/50 (2009)
Burdigala Roppongi 37/50 (2008)
Chez Matsuo Shoto 39/50 (2008)
Chez Pierre Minami-Aoyama 39/50 (2008)
Cogito Roppongi 38/50 (2008)
Coucagno Shibuya 39/50 (2008)
Dame Jeanne Maruyamacho 35/50 (2008)
Epanoui Hiroo 37/50 (2008)
Grape Gumbo Ginza 34/50 (2008)
Harmonie Nishi-Azabu 38/50 (2009)
La Chasse Roppongi 38/50 (2008)
La Lune Higashi Azabu 35/50 (2008)
Le Burguignon Nishi-Azabu 40/50 (2008)
Le Clos Montmartre Kagurazaka 35/50 (2010)
Le garcon de la vigne Hiroo 35/50 (2008)
Le jeu de l'assiette Ebisu 39/50 (2009)
Le Lion Ebisu 35/50 (2009)
Le Marche aux Puces Ebisu 37/50 (2008)
Le Petit Courageux Yokohama 36/50 (2009)
Le Pre Verre Omotesando 35/50 (2009)
Le Recamier Moto-Azabu 37/50 (2008)
Le Remois Marunouchi 28/50 (2009)
Les Halles Gotanda 35/50 (2010)
L'Embellir Minami-Aoyama 35/50 (2009)
Provinage Roppongi 38/50 (2009)
Les Rendezvous Nishi-Azabu 36/50 (2011)
Restaurant and Bar J Hiroo 38/50 (2010)
Restaurant and Wine Bar Davis Takanawa 37/50 (2010)
Va Tout Roppongi 34/50 (2010)



Indian
Delhi Ginza 35/50 (2008)



Italian
Antonio's Minami Aoyama 37/50 (2009)
A Presto Kita Aoyama 38/50 (2008)
Bevetrice Ebisu 38/50 (2010)
Bolice Minami-Aoyama 36/50 (2008)
Casina Canamilla Naka-Meguro 37/50 (2010)
Che Pacchio Azabu Juban 37/50 (2009)
Collina Piccolo Haramachi 31/50 (2007)
De' Longhi Daikanyama 38/50 (2008)
Delizioso Italia Ebisu 35/50 (2009)
Don Ciccio Shibuya 34/50 (2008)
Esperia Nishi-Azabu 37/50 (2007)
Estasi Roppongi 38/50 (2008)
Felicita Minami-Aoyama 38/50 (2007)
Goutte d'or Achiano Nishi-Azabu 34/50 (2008)
Il Mulino Roppongi 34/50 (2010)
I Sentieri Nishi-Azabu 35/50 (2009)
Incanto Minami-Azabu 38/50 (2008)
La Bisboccia Ebisu 35/50 (2007)
La Cometa Azabu Juban 35/50 (2009)
Obika Roppongi 35/50 (2010)
Osteria Nakamura Roppongi 40/50 (2010)
Piatto Suzuki Juban 37/50 (2009)
Ristorante FRICK Minami-Aoyama 37/50 (2010)
Ristorante La Primula Azabu Juban 31/50 (2008)
Trattoria Tornavento Nishi-Azabu 37/50 (2010)


Japanese
Daikichi Daikanyama 35/50 (2010)
Les Vinum Nishi-Azabu 37/50 (2008)
Ogawaken Daikanyama 41/50 (2009)
Yamada Chikara Minami-Azabu 43/50 (2008)

Singapore
Hainan Jeefan Shokudo Roppongi 33/50 (2007)
Sin Tong Kee Ebisu 36/50 (2008)


Spanish
Kitchen Cero Kami-Osaki 37/50 (2010)
La Taperia Yotsuya 36/50 (2007)
Sabado Sabadete Shirokanedai 34/50 (2009)